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Yeah, mine isn’t fitting that easily. Was hoping to see some tricks, like using a gigantic socket…

Do not underestimate how much fuel is in that sucker.

Folks, this is another option. Dropped the tank once only to have the fuel pump go out a month later. Great idea. This should have been a FORD Design.

My starter just went out literally in my driveway 95 Bronco EB its the original starter Its Giving the one click !!😢

I got some old rusty tools would that work on em too ?

I fixed this and it'll work, but my ac will kick back to defrost when I get up to about 55-65 and won't kick back till I let off the gas. Weird problem been trying to figure it, maybe a leak behind firewall🤷‍♂️

116, 327,538,116,327

Question for you. I have a 1994 f150 4.9 single tank 5 spd manual. I narrowed my fuel issue to having power at inertia switch through to red yellow wire. No power from there to fuel pump. I do not have the fuel selector switch since i only have one tank. From what i read i have a fuel selector jumper. Do you know where that could be or have you dealt with this problem before?

I've done that job..

Thank you for this video. I am having grounding problems with my current terminal setup, and these may solve my problem. Can't wait to get them.

Hey Stevie, did you got with the plush cut pile or the ultra plush cut pile? Im assuming you added mass loaded vinyl.

Obs Ford tip on your super duty lol😂 same stuff applies though. I think possibly different part numbers for the body change. Poly is absolutely worth it. I don't personally know a single person who was disappointed with changing stuff over to poly.

Bro, didn’t make it cold air intake he made a hot air intake

I have a 1991 f-150…. The first code that I’m getting is 111 then 10 and then 172……. What I understood from this video the 172 has to be the first number right…

just delete it

Any brake blowouts happened at high speed? Or a Very hard brake stop ?? I’m very curious 🧐

Mini bedside stiffener is my adult film name. Expect to hear from my attorney

Да возьми ты уже выколотку и нормальный молоток, что ты над этой пластиковой киянкой издеваешься.

So if you cut the hatch out,how do you make it big enough so it doesn't just fall back through the hole you just cut that I'd the same size hmmmm

My God. I used to try to slide a brickup to the gas pedal to keep it depressed. Works great until you start heading down hill. Lol

Did you disconnect the original Ignition control module ? The one located on the passenger side fender

The vac line you disconnected on the box while insulating, where does that line go to on the other end? What is its purpose? Mine is disconnected on my 95 F150. Thanks for any help.

A lift kit that reduces clearance - genius 😖

I have a tip for caliper line bolts I learned a long time ago and want to pass it on in case someone doesn't know. Tighten the banjo bolt down until the new copper washers are snug and then smack it with a hammer(not too hard!) It seats the copper rings and won't ever leak.

they work well, its worth changing the pins every brake job though

My 93 ford ranger has the same sistem

Would this cause clunking only backing up while turning or only sometimes while braking, the passenger tire is also wearing on the outside even after doing an alignment. I’ve been trying to figure it out for months looked up underneath and haven’t really seen anything tried balljoint/wheel bearing assessment on jack stands and there’s really no play that I can feel in it. It’s a 2wd 95 f350

I've thought of adding the bronco 38 to the rear of mine but keeping the front also. Would be nice for trips

After the plenum comes off, whats the valve towards the back left side with the yellow and pinkish red color?

Great videos but torque specs please and include if there's any procedure for torquing, such as having the full weight of the truck in order to torque

My favorite type of TR

Pretty cool idea I’m gonna go see if they have one that fits my 86

Any tips to decide whether the issue is the torque converter vs trans? With?without overdrive on. Typically between 30-50, truck gets a pretty bad shudder situation. Trans shifts good under load, like doing a "pulll" getting onto highway. Downshifts. Jusy seems like it only does it with low rpm part throttle situations. 95 302, 240k miles, ive replaced plugs, distributor, wires, coil, cleaned intake manifold-(pvc valve), and throttle position sensor. Which corrected all engine codes (gets the 111 all clear pass on scanner)

Very good, easy to follow video! So I decided to give this a shot on my 1995 F-150. Got a used steering wheel on ebay. Got a servo and cable from a junk yard. Decided to jumper the pressure switch instead of installing the master cylinder and TSB harness. All went well, very much like the video, but the CC doesn't work. Horn works, no ABS light, brake lights work. Just looking for leads on how to trouble shoot what my problem may be. Bad steering wheel switches, clock spring, or servo? Any way to test any of these? Thanks

What’s the bolt size for the harmonic balancer at 1:32? I think it’s bigger than 3/4

How similar is this on a C6 (78 bronco) transmission?